16 July 2008

Addendum

I forgot to mention in my most recent post that, finally, a week or so later, I have finished my big New York post about Day 2. There are some pictures up and a description of my Lower East Side Tour. I backdated everything, so scroll down and enjoy. :)

Leah

15 July 2008

איך רעד יידסיש

איך בין גוט אָבער איצט איך בין קראנק
מיר האָבן א סך הײמארבעט אבער איך לערן א סך

די מענטסן אין דער פּראָגראם זײַנען זײער קלוג און די פּראָפֿעסאָרס זײַנען זײער אינטערעסאָנט

כ'וועל שרײַבן נאָך באלד

מיט ליבשאפֿט
לאה–נחלה

Just in case you wanted some actual proof that I am, in fact, learning this language. Here's a translation:

I am well, but now I am sick.
We have a lot of homework, but I am learning a lot.
The people in the program are really smart and the professors are very interesting.
I will write more soon.

With affection,
Leah

To expand a little from my 6-year old's Yiddish, I got slammed with a stupid cold this week. The timing is actually okay: my body held out until after New York travel, and this is a light week in terms of assigned reading. I'm going through my typical virus trajectory. The sore throat phase is over and now I am losing my voice.

My research in New York was... well, kind of unsuccessful, unfortunately. That's the nature of archival research. The truth is, I was really unpleasantly surprised when I arrived at the Tamiment Labor Archives. I was expecting to be working with original materials, but the particular items I was examining (correspondence) was only available on microfilm. After sifting through microfilm for nearly three tedious hours, I was unable to locate what I set out to find. If I had more time there, I may have discovered the handful of things that I wanted at NYU. I shake my fist at microfilm! Fie!

Squandered hours aside, it is actually for the better in this case. The week after our trip, we were lucky enough to have Naomi Seidman from the Graduate Theological Union in Berkeley. We unfortunately did not have nearly enough time (2 or 3 weeks would have been much better) with her to delve into the material as deeply as I would have liked. Luckily, though, her focus was largely on the female voice in Yiddish literature, which is in large part what I set out to really explore in my project in the first place.

When we got to the Yiddish Modernist poets and authors in our readings, I was really, really into the discussion. Some of the better known writers, like Kadya Molodowsky and Cynthia Ozick, I had read a little on my own. But Naomi (no disrespect intended, by the way; everyone has been on a first-name basis this summer) also gave us some poetry by Celia Dropkin and Anna Margolin, two Russian-American avant-garde poets. I found Anna Margolin's poetry especially interesting for a Yiddish writer. In many ways, her poetry reflects a certain female tradition in Eastern European Jewish culture. Yet she also deals with many non-Jewish themes, uses Christian imagery, and seeks to redefine what (Jewish) womanhood means in a modern world.

The individuality Margolin asserts in some of her poetry we read reminded me of the way in which Emma Goldman articulated her stance on womanhood. Many find her outspokenness against women's suffrage to be incongruous with her otherwise "feminist" views. From reading Living My Life, one of her two massive autobiographies (she had a very full life), it is clear to me that Goldman relates deeply to her femininity and cherishes the role that women play in the world. However, her justification for her stance women's suffrage is quite nuanced and certainly fits in with her radical denouncement of all hierarchy.

Goldman believed that a political right like suffrage would do no good for the majority of women who (at the time) were tied to the patriarchal yoke of incessant childbearing and child rearing, and other worldly responsibilities. It was no coincidence to her that the most outspoken suffragists were also the most pious and the most burdened by the responsibilities of home. There would be no true political, economic, or social solutions for women until they learned to denounce the set of values that limited them to the domestic sphere. The key to the liberation of women, Goldman said, is to view the self as an individual worthy of men in any sphere.

To establish one's self as an individual and as a woman in the Modern world, whether politically or aesthetically, was no easy task, of course. The idea of the woman as an individual, free of any social constraints, was certainly quite radical. It is this idea that I am most interested in exploring in Margolin's poetry. She was not political, but was nevertheless a radical and innovative poet.

All in all, I am satisfied, and I hope that I will not reach another dead end with this project. Wish me luck!

By the way, the last day of the program is July 30th. I'll be back in Miami sometime in August with many stories to tell.

10 July 2008

Overdue Update (of course), Part 1

After a short, but incredibly jam-packed trip to New York City, a brief side trip to visit with a friend in Connecticut, a really crazy trip back from NYC to Amherst* and a nearly full week dedicated to recovering from said events, I am back in Amherst. I have some extra time this morning because my Yiddish teacher, Yuri, suggested that we move today's class to the afternoon. We're going to order pizza and go swimming while we have a Yiddish lesson on some relevant topic. Sounds good to me!

So, New York: On the whole, it was an excellent experience. I think I would have enjoyed some portions of the trip more had they been scheduled in a more reasonable fashion. But I will try to recall the details of each day. For the sake of organization and for to make this entry a palatable size, I am going to backdate my entries by days of the trip. Scroll down to July 1st to read about my entire from the beginning.


*Side story: About half of the interns left New York City in the National Yiddish Book Center van on Thursday evening. The other half wanted to stay in various parts of the New York-New Jersey-Connecticut corridor and agreed to meet at the NYU dorms on Sunday to ride back in the other van. All went well with the meet-up: we managed to come from our various weekend travel spots and meet punctually. About halfway into our ride, about 15 miles South of Hartford, Connecticut, we hit a dead halt on i-91. We quickly found out from an adjacent trucker who hears traffic reports over his radio system that there had been a terrible motorcycle accident a few miles ahead of where we stopped. Two people were dead on the scene, one was airlifted and was in pretty bad condition, and the highway had to close for "3-4 hours." We made the best of it while we sat there, notwithstanding the fact that we had to pee in the dark bushes in Nowheresville, Connecticut. While I did some homework, someone took out a guitar, two of the other interns took out a harmonica and a violin, and they engaged in a "traffic jam" (yes, I know, very funny...). Several hours later, the traffic finally moved. Relief. But when we finally passed the scene of the accident, the authorities had not yet removed the two dead motorcyclists. They had white sheets spread over them, of course, but it was no less jarring an image to view, especially after we all had spent the last few hours in merriment with strangers we'd never see again. It was a really poignant scene. We didn't make it home until 1 AM, and, needless to say, I was absolutely exhausted (and a bit traumatized) on Monday.

03 July 2008

The Only Living Girl in New York

Hey all! Not much time for a big update at the moment. I have been in New York City since Tuesday afternoon and it has been a jam-packed crazy schedule. Right now, I am at the New York University Library where--after a much needed restroom/water stop--I will begin sifting through the Tamiment Library Labor Archives. For whatever reason, this special collection at NYU houses all the letters of Rose Pastor Stokes, one of the Jewish radical women I am researching. I'm interested in her relationship to Emma Goldman during the beginning of the birth control movement in the United States. She wrote this very obscure play called The Woman Who Wouldn't that touched upon many of the moral issues relating to birth control and abortion. According to some scholarship I have read, she was encouraged by the ideas of Emma Goldman to write this play, so I hope that I can find something useful in her correspondence to substantiate that. Wish me luck. My next update will have pictures and full details.

02 July 2008

Day 2 in New York City

This was definitely my favorite day of the entire trip to New York City. In the morning, we hoofed it to the Lower East Side, where Yiddish in America once flourished. It was really interesting to walk into the Lower East Side from the subway with that image in mind. The neighborhood is so different now. There are a few remnants of immigrant Jews, but most of the signs are Chinese/English amalgams. Very little evidence of the Yiddish world in America still exists in that area. Nevertheless, what does still exist in the Lower East Side gave me a little taste of what life in New York was like for Eastern European Jews.

Our first stop was the Eldrigde Street Synagogue, the first Eastern European Jewish Congregation in the United States. I had heard a little bit about this place on NPR. For many years, it was in a state of disrepair. Although people still attended the shul for worship, the upstairs was literally collapsing. After many years and much hard work, a group of dedicated donors and the city of New York fully restored it and opened it to the public for viewing.

It was certainly unlike most of the synagogues that I have ever seen. The architecture reminded me a lot of the basilicas I saw in Italy when I was there in high school. The building wasn't shaped like a cross, of course, but the columns, the stained glass, and the artwork on the ceiling were reminiscent of that style. As it turns out, the Eldrige Street Synagogue was modeled after Eastern European places of worship. There was really no distinction between Jewish, Christian, Catholic, etc. It was simply the way that places of worship were designed.

I won't post all of my pictures, but I'll give a small sampling. This was a view from upstairs. The lighting was kind of dim, but it was probably intentional. One of the obligations of historical preservation is to be as loyal to the original conditions of the building as possible. In the early 20th century, the building would have had (I think) alcohol burners in the chandelier. It is doubtful that it would have been much brighter than it was the day we were inside. It is certain, however, that it would have been much, much warmer.

The synagogue had a lot of character. It was clear to me that, in spite of the harsh conditions and poverty that Jews met in America, they made it a priority to build something beautiful in which to rejoice. At the same time, it was not ostentatious like many of the contemporary synagogues I have seen.

Hand carved stand on the pulpit.

Stars and a stained glass Star of David on the ceiling.

After the visit there, we took a walking tour of the Lower East Side. Fortunately and unfortunately, our tour guide was very enthusiastic about providing us a detailed history, much of which we just got from our readings for class. We heard a lot of details about the things we saw, but I found myself wanting to see more and do more walking at the end of the 2-hour tour. Thankfully, we did manage to see some very neat things along the way.

The most exciting stop on the tour was the building for the Forverts, the (I believe) longest running Yiddish language newspaper in the United States. Nowadays, I suspect that they have a larger circulation of their English language version, The Jewish Daily Forward. Despite a dwindling audience, they still publish their Yiddish paper.I doubt you can see it from this admittedly crappy photo, but if you click on it, you might notice that on the top of the building, there is Yiddish script that reads " פֿאָרווערטס " and the FORWARD painted on the side of the building. It was bigger than any of the surrounding buildings.

The true peak of my Lower East Side experience came at the very end. With 30 minutes to shovel food down our throats before we had to meet up with the group that didn't go on the tour, we stumbled into an authentic Jewish Lower East Side dining establishment.


(Photo credit to my friend, Julie)

That's me in the middle, standing between my friends and housemates, Rachel (left) and Sam (right). I think that the signs in the windows can really speak to the spirit of the place. [Oh yeah, side note for those who might be shocked to see this picture: I cut off 10 inches of hair and donated it to Locks of Love before I left for New York. After donating a foot about 4 years ago, I swore I'd never do it again. So much for that...]

Since it was a dairy kosher restaurant, they didn't serve meat, which made me pretty happy. I ordered something that I heard called "Mock Chop"--meatless chopped liver. I've never particularly wanted to eat the real thing, so having the vegetarian version was authentic enough for me. The food was good, but the people sitting in the restaurant were even better. Some of the interns sat and chatted with some of the Yiddish-speaking regulars. One of the men sitting there got up and tried to summon one of his (far less interested) friends, excitedly spreading the news: "Did you hear that? These kids are learning Yiddish!" One was a Holocaust survivor. Another was a 98 year old man from outside of Minsk who, in spite of his feeble body (he had his caretaker with him), was completely sound of mind. I wish I could have more fully participated in the conversation, but it was really enjoyable to simply listen, too.

As thrilling as it was to watch members of my generation connect with the past, there was something also sobering about the experience. Though we are learning Yiddish, there is something entirely inauthentic about it. The bygone days of Yiddishkeit will never be truly recreated. I may be able to speak more of the language with further study, but even if I were to achieve fluency, I would still be an outsider, a member of the audience. The last vestiges of this culture were sitting in that deli, and are still sitting in delis in other corners of the world. At least I can say I played a minute part in experiencing it and that I am playing a larger role in preserving its memory.

01 July 2008

Day 1 in New York City

After our morning Yiddish language class, we all (that is, 18 interns and 3 staff members) hopped into two vans and headed out to New York at 12:30. We arrived with no problems at the NYU dorms at around 3, where we checked in, caught our breath for a second, and headed out immediately to Katz's Deli. I took some pictures, but I realize now that in my enduring technological brilliance, I deleted all of those pictures before I could upload them. I will try to get a few from others to post.

It's a good thing that it was a really, really long walk from our dorm at NYU because the sheer amount of food they serve at that place is astounding. As I am not of the meat-eating persuasion, I did not partake in one of the more typical New York deli dishes. Nevertheless, it was amusing to watch my friends try very hard to finish their sandwiches. Each sandwich was stuffed full with 2 or so inches of meat. Some others also got huge pieces of kugel, knishes, soups, deserts and, of course, pickles. I ordered an omelet (which was generous enough in size), but, like everyone else, I got an entire plate full of both sour and half-sour pickles. I ate the entire plate of pickles. It occurred to me later, when I found myself drinking cup after cup of water, that I was easily dehydrated from the pickles alone.

After Katz's, we hiked it a few blocks for an hour-long subway ride into the Bronx. Our destination was a small vestige of Yiddish culture that still exists in the Bronx. All 18 interns and our staff members filed into the house of Beyle Schaechter-Gottesman, a Yiddish-speaking relative of the great linguist Mordechai Schaechter. I wish I had not been stuffed with pickles and dead exhausted, or I may have been able to enjoy the experience more fully. What we attended is called a Zingeray--a circle of Yiddish speakers who get together every once in awhile to sing lesser-known Yiddish songs. It was neat to watch everyone with varying levels of musical talent lead the group. It was folksy and completely unpretentious. The best was watching Beyle, who is (I think) in her late 70s, sing these songs. Her delivery was soulful, even if she had difficulty recalling some of the words. My only complaint--aside from being utterly exhausted that evening--was that I felt a little bit uncomfortable. We (that is, the interns) were not asked to introduce ourselves to the circle at the beginning. They did not sing any songs we knew and it was difficult to hear the translations when they provided them. Some of the more advanced students were able to participate, but the beginners (more than half of us) were kind of excluded from the experience.

After an hour long train ride back to NYU, we finally got to sleep--with air conditioning, no less!--and anticipated an early morning.

25 June 2008

The Yiddish Press

A new, not-so-shiny-but-no-less-fascinating object suddenly appeared in the Book Center the other day. A Yiddish printing press (**edit: According to my dad, who is an engineer and general machine-ophile far more attuned to these things than I am, it is a linotype machine. According to him, these machines were so well built that it could very well still work)! I am not sure of the exact year that this one was manufactured, but the patent plate on the side of the press says that the model received a patent in 1911.

The significance of the printing press cannot be understated in the development of a Modern Yiddish literary and political culture. This printing press is where it all really happened. Literary journals that published avant-garde poetry and fiction; political newspapers of the Anarchists, Socialists, Communists, Zionists, rival factions within each movement; and many other publications geared toward a Yiddish-speaking audience throughout Eastern Europe and the United States flourished in the early 20th century.

One of the ironic things I learned in my Yiddish Culture class--no slight against the Book Center intended--is that the Yiddish press was actually far more influential than books were in developing Yiddish as a literary language. Much of the Yiddish literature we see in book form at the National Yiddish Book Center today was originally serialized in newspapers.Newspapers were cheap, easy to circulate, and numerous in ideology and audience. Because of these practical reasons, culture, literature, and politics were largely a community experience. Unlike the more intimate experience of novel, the newspaper would be read by multiple people in a household and would be the subject of heated debate in cafes. That kind of populist literary consumption does not exist in the same way now.



I'm not sure if you can tell from the size of this photo, but those are characters of the Yiddish Alef-Beys, which comprises the Hebrew alphabet with some added combinations of letters and some added diacritical marks.


Pretty crazy looking, huh?